Ossiano - Salty Kisses & Sandy Toes

Apparently an anniversary destination

Waiting in the lounge of Ossiano staring at this rather large wafer of fossilized seafood, you can’t help but wonder about the possibilities of the night. Already stymied by the extremely kitsch choice of art in the hallways of the Atlantis. There are also these shops that can sell you jewelry or a Rolex in case an emergency arises. But me, I was buoyed by some compliments dished out by a member of the staff about my unused jacket, dusted out of obscurity. My partner was quick to point out this was a one night only offer, much like Cinderella. We cracked on with the crispy treat and washed down the last vestiges of exhaustion with a fresh palate cleanser drink and glugged down some tasty drinks - coconut washed tequila and a cucumber mocktail which was like tasting the sea. The setting is embryonic – ripe with possibilities. The restaurant showcases the low visibility of the ocean depths with cool blue lighting, grey textured walls and columns with some splashes of lamps like a diver’s torch and the curated bounty of nature glistening in front of you. They remind you that the nature we try so hard to run away from is where we all belong. Being an immigrant for over a decade now, I find it hard to pin down a home. But watching the schools of fishes crisscrossing one another, you realize we are born to be on the move. We are our most beautiful when we are together and when we brave through unchartered waters. The choice of music is regrettably a distraction in an otherwise tranquil setting. You could even get away with serving toast and butter here. But the team here is far too generous, much like nature.

Unveiling a spanking new rendition of an 8-course tasting menu called “Anchored” inspired by voyages and discoveries across the famous Atlantic trail, the food is quite unhinged. The concept is compelling. While history could be damning on the consequences of these voyages what they did for the culinary lexicon cannot be overlooked. The seating is smart, there is enough space between tables to keep it intimate, there is a rolodex of staff who pass by and whip up a conversation almost seemingly organic. There is a discourse on how to use the compass that’s on the table which you need sometimes to understand what you are eating. There is also a beautiful handbook through which the chef communicates the thought process of the journey. Extremely well thought out and a smart way to keep diners occupied. I have noticed in other tasting menus that menu is common, exception of course where some restaurants offer a vegetarian alternative. Here, much like the choices faced by the voyagers of the past, the diners are allowed choice of 2 dishes a few times along the journey. Of course, a minor deviation, but this allows you to veer a different path while still holding hands at the table. I could as well notice that pretty much every anniversary celebrating couple were leveraging this to make this 8-course dinner, an 11-course dinner. With some dramatic dishes on offer, it also adds to the revisitability. Tasting menus, much like a suspense film work best in your first time I’d reckon and just by making some small changes they have made this a lot more compelling.

We started off with some appetizers and this isn’t counted as a course. Presented beautifully were a small pocket of shrimp mousse (swapped out for mushroom due to my allergies), a tartlet of oyster mousse and a tartlet of tuna and jalapeno gelato. Aside from the first item which you will be trying to remove from the crown of your teeth for the next two course they set the tone perfectly for what this entire menu is. It is a seafood menu that is going to places you haven’t been before. Standout was the oyster mousse.

First course was Primavera and just by virtue of living in the Springs we felt an immediate bond. The dish is phenomenal, the savoury meringue on the rim of the plate, the texture of the seasonal vegetables and a herbaceous green curry mousse sang in sync. While you continue scraping every bit of this, the plate is smooth, doesn’t grind and lends to it. This is all planned.

Second course was a diversion between a beef ham and a scallops. We shared both. The ham was the canvas on which the punchier marine ingredients reveled. It was a fatty brush stroke that rivalled many a painting and paired with mojama ice cream and cured anchovies. Scallops however, were paired with textures of corn, coconut jelly and frozen ceviche. Quite contrasting dishes & both were excellent.

We met again through the dish of the night (for me). Kokotxas of black cod soaking in a thick black sesame sauce. They had generously slathered caviar and black garlic was buried to add to the surprise. The dish itself was paired with some in house sourdough bread and buckwheat infused butter. The fatty fish was decadent, the sauce complex and shone. The finesse on the slice of bread and the butter medallion were admirable. The dish is steeped in mystery and the portion just right.

On our next diversion, we had the choices of grilled squid & langoustines. This turned out to be the Sophie’s choice. While we were waiting, they managed to squeeze in another course with the coconuty, lemongrassy Thai broth with pearls of lobster at the bottom. Classic flavours, warm and comforting and helps get over the highs of the previous course. Squid cooked on an Asian grill is certainly a party. The thin perfectly cooked strips of squid was paired with feijoa and chayote to keep it fruity, tangy & spicy. Smart and inventive. The langoustine was a different story. The soft and precious langoustine was contrasted with crispy rice (seemed tapioca pearls to me) bathed in jalapeno & coconut broth with a hint of passion fruit. Terrific dishes both.

We reconvened for the lobster. Lobster is served in a green soft tortilla with seaweed mole and tomatoes. I am not sure about this one. Fundamentally, I am against burying lobster in a taco. Lobsters (to which I might be allergic to and is a genuine health hazard for me) are celebrated ingredients & need the chefs to build the dishes around them, not to be hidden away in a woeful green chapati. The green taco was too thick, too vegetal and seemed too grainy. Other ingredients just caught stray bullets simply because the lead was let down.

Fret not. We went away again to experience lamb and interestingly, croque monsieur. They bring a live “Work-In-Progress” lamb being cured in its own fat from their curing station for us to admire. The lamb tajine was served with tiny pani puris and corne de gazelle (new discovery) which is another puri stuffed with almond paste and fried to oblivion. This dish was spectacular. The lamb was cooked to pink and tender, paired perfectly with the puris, vegetables and tasty raisins. There was also an extremely flavourful morroccon team reimagined with beef consommé which was also a nice pairing. I am a huge tajine head, but have never once imagined it with such nuance. While the lamb was lip smackingly good, the croque monsieur felt weighed down literally by the cheese. I felt it was too rich, the cheese to bread ratio was off. The dish is an instrument to invoke nostalgia. It does that in abundance to the children in us, but it would be smarter to also be a grown up about the proportions of the truffles and cheese. Maybe just the cheese, adults make mistakes too.

Eventually we arrive at the desserts. The first dessert course was served as two separate portions. One portion was Obleas or the best ice cream sandwich ever. The wafer-thin biscuits were propped together by some magical custard. It worked as a perfect bite. The other was a blend of fruits – mango, coconut, lemon and some lime jellies. Simple fresh tantalizing dessert. The second dessert course were called the textures of chocolate with a rum jelly. Every bite had a different tune to hum and together, the orchestra was complete.

The dinner was served over almost three and a half hours. Surprisingly you need all of that for there is so much to savour. It also means that you have a lot of time where you are playing rock paper scissors with the fish. The staff keep you engaged in the lore of the experience, the history of the restaurant and the thought process behind the meal. They are knowledgeable, fun and interactive. We had Nicole and Luke who walked us through the menu and were fantastic. The menu they explain is only a week old and they unfurled it like they have done it a million times before with elan. When they ask you which was your favourite, it doesn’t seem like a Nielsen’s questionnaire, but it feels like they genuinely want to know. It is earnest and I had a great time in their company.

Bearing some petit fours was a weary Chef Berger. I think we were among the last to leave and he was kind enough to pass by and chat with us. He told us how arduous it has been in words, and you can also tell how challenging it must have been to lay the foundations of a coherent meal experience.

To say the meal was spectacular would be an understatement. The labour that has gone in the menu could easily be evidenced by the choice of plates, never mind the food. The staff have held on to the concept and ran to the hilt with it. They deliver the voyage they promise and at the end of the meal you realize the whole experience could have even been an ambitious dream.

PS: Suffer this, because I thought we looked hella nice. No need to say she looked better

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